Away on holiday

Many apologies for those of you for whom I am sure the arrival of my latest Dogblog is a much anticipated event, but I have been on my holidays. We all have, myself, the two tall ones, and even Ella was included. Our destination was the ancient town of Lagos on the Algarve coast of southern Portugal, a foreign country for which this dog did not even have to show his passport. We stayed in a small but very well located complex called Dona Ana Garden and as an economical but comfortable choice we would certainly recommend it.

It has to be said that we dogs are creatures of habit, content with a regular daily routine and like nothing more than to know where we are and what's expected of us. Why else do you thinking we can show daily excitement at meal times when the same sloppy brown goo is served up, day after day? Of course the occasional savoury surprise extra is always welcome, be we expect and are content with the monotony of our daily nourishment. I explain all this to illustrate that routine is part of our makeup, it is in our doggy nature, and as such we don't necessarily need to be packed into the back of a car for six hours in order to change this routine by way of a holiday. Holidays are, I believe, an entirely human concept, unless, of course, you count the annual migration of birds, fish and wilder beasts across the plains of Africa.

Not wishing to be too ungrateful, though, I did enjoy the new smells of the Portuguese streets and the chance to let the wind blow back my ears on the expansive and empty golden beaches of the western Atlantic coast. What I did not enjoy was being towed around various towns on the end of a lead and not being allowed to stop and sniff at each and every lamp post, kerb stone or litter bin. If you have time to spare you could play the video below to gain some idea of the experience I had to endure.


Coastal holidays are all well and good, but since moving to Spain I have become a mountain dog, and so the only place I can truly recommend for a memorable break from routine is a stay at Cortijo Opazo.


But now, at long last up here in the mountains, the rain is falling and this may well turn to snow, so it's time to light the fire a curl up with with a collection of poetry. I've heard that T. S Eliot has been voted the nation's favourite poet by a BBC poll, chiefly, I expect, due to his 'Old Possum's Book of Practical Cats' that was popularised and vulgarised by a theatrical musical with a much briefer name. I'm going to see what the fuss is all about and try inventing some poetry about canine escapades.


Yours, dreaming of being Poet Laureate,


Fergus

Memories are made of .....

It looks to me as though I can look forward to many years of happy, well fed retirement - would that it arrive soon.  Cans of meaty Covidog food are unlikely to be in short supply.  I know this because we have received a stream of well meant compliments about the holiday experience here at Cortijo Opazo, all of which bode well for our continued success. I don't wish to blow our collective trumpet in an inappropriate manner, but if you have time, you might appreciate  a persusal of the comments that some of our recent guests have made:

We've had a lovely week here: walking and enjoying the views, peace and tranquility of both the local area and of the cortijo.  Of the walks, we recommend seeking out those that follow old mule tracks or paths rather than the forest pistas (tracks) which are much less characterful - the walk down the hill from Cortijo Opazo and around the valley opposite follows some of the wonderful mule trails which are redolent of the history of the area.  We discovered that any water at this time of year is going to be far too cold for immersion (though we did meet a stark naked Spaniard on the hill above the big waterfall who claimed that a dip was just the thing!) The villages are endlessly fascinating, but it's great also to have the contrast of seeing some of the higher countryside, where you can really get the feeling of being far from civilisation.  The mountains are BIG and steep, but there are some delightful acequias which follow gentle gradients: our favourite was Acequia Sierra, west of La Cebadilla above Capileira.

Thanks to Robert and William for all the care that has gone into making this a beautiful and easy place to stay - we will certainly recommend you to friends and family.  The four course meal was very special!  Many thanks.
                Rose and Steve, October 2009

An encounter with a naked Spaniard is not something we can guarantee here at Cortijo Opazo, but if it might add to your holiday experience, I guess we can look into it.  Our next guests made no report of such matters, but none the less had a stimulating time here:

We have had a wonderful week here at the cortijo.  The Alpujarras are beautiful with plenty of walking opportunities, combined with the garden here where lots of relaxation and reading happened.  Robert and William are great hosts and fantastic cooks.  Only regret is that we left it to the last evening to sample their cooking so no chance to have a second meal!  Many thanks for a great stay and being so considerate.


Dave and Gaby, El Lújar October 2009.

Thank you Dave and Gaby, I'm pleased that Robert's spicey Morrocan vegetables with cous cous did the trick for you.  The next comment is from a couple who have become very at home here, and, in my opinion, a little too free with with the local dogs.  If anyone deserves any morsels from the table, it is primarily ME!

  

The problems encountered at 5.00am at East Midlands airport when, on this occasion, Roger wanted to bring his road bike here, soon disappeared when we finally reached Cortijo Opazo, to be warmly greeted once again by Fergus, Ella and, of course, William and Robert.  A quick stop at Paco's beforehand would mark the beginning of what was to be another wonderful week.

This has been our 3rd stay within the last 12 months, and with another week booked here for next Spring,... what more can be said.

As previously, we ordered one of Robert and William's meals to be ready on the evening of our arrival. What a scrummy meal it was too! As a result we enjoyed a different meal each evening. Did we have a favourite? - No!! They were all delicious! We saved out gourmet meal for the penultimate evening. What a wonderful meal it was too! And so beautifully presented. With the warm evening in late October we were able to enjoy the meal on the terrace with the moon and Jupiter perfectly positioned above.

We admit to spoiling the shepherd's dogs. They need spoiling! Tula and her "gang" are lovely..... We hope they stay safe until we return!! We walked and Roger cycled. He loves the roads. The weather has been wonderful all week with the autumnal colours dominating the landscape.

Dear Robert and William - thank you so much for making us welcome once again! For providing us with excellent food and accommodation and a setting "to die for"!! Roll on next Spring....

Barbara and Roger, October 2009

Thank you Roger and Barbara, I'll see to it personaly that the shepherd's dogs get the food you left behind for them.  Honest I will!  

It has to be said, October has been a good deal warmer than one might expect and the trees don't know whether to shed their leaves or sprout new ones.  In the same vein, Ella and I don't know whether to shed our thin summer coat of fur and bring forth our winter coat, or resort to the to a turn with the garden strimmer.  Despite being the end of October the stove in the main part of the house has not been lit, so I remain nostaligic for winters past and hopeful for the snow that is yet to fall.


Yours, in mid molt,


Fergus.

Chestnuts and wood smoke.

The season of Autumn is one that aptly suits a dog such as I.  It is slow to arrive but when in full force it can be magnificent.  Dazzling blue skies providing the contrast for the kaleidoscope of leafy colours.  The high mountains here are dressed with the first fall of snow, as has happened this week, and the streams in the hidden valleys fill with babbling fresh water.  Here in the Alpujarras it is also 'Bottoms in the Air' season; a strange annual custom that never fails.  Along the footpaths and sides of the road you can clearly see locals and visitors alike bent over with their rear quarters in the air.  One of the emblematic tress of the region are its magnificent chestnuts, from which many of the houses are constructed.  At this time of the year they drop their bounty of sweet chestnuts, wrapped in prickly husks.  It is these that the tall ones are searching for on the woodland floor, sweet chestnuts.  Hands foraging amongst newly fallen leaves, bottoms proudly in the air.  Once gathered, they are conveyed to open fire or stove to roast, burn and throw out onto the ground once more.  The art of roasting and peeling a chestnut is s tricky one, but it is reason enough for many Spanish families to come up to the mountains at this most favoured time of year.

I'm not keen of chestnuts.  It's not their flavour but the feel of them that I detest.  If you see the world from my point of view you will understand.  Imagine the floor of a narrow footpath strewn ten centimetres deep with sharp needle covered chestnut husks.  Then imagine your legs are only fifteen centimetres long and that parts of your body barely clear the ground when you walk.  Would you choose to delight in the Autumn spectacle of a chestnut wood and enjoy walking under its ancient bows as you pick your way through a million intrusive sharp points?

One of the prettier sights of Autumn are the wild crocus (crocus nudiflorus) that cover the mountainside at an altitude of about 2000 metres.  The spring ones largely seem to be whiter whilst the Autumn ones appear in delightful lilac.

All things considered, though, Autumn is very agreeable to a dachshund, most of all because in the months to come he can enjoy the prospect of the fire being lit and the hearth rug rolled out.


Yours, dreaming of wood smoke,


Fergus

Great Expectations!

Hello Dogblog followers, I hope we have all overcome the trauma of the previous entry.  Ella has been put in her place I will make sure it never happens again.  Of course nobody could have understood what she was gabbling on about, I blame her modern education system - or complete lack of it.  In the meantime, let's ponder on some pleasanter matters, namely the holiday enjoyed here recently by Patsy and Colin.


    This is our first stay in the Alpujarras and indeed in Southern Spain and it won't be our last!  
    Cortijo Opazo was our final venue in our three week holiday, having stayed near Orgiva and then Lanjaron before coming here.  We can honestly now say that we saved the best till last; it has exceeded all our expectations.
    Robert and William are perfect hosts, very welcoming on our arrival, friendly and helpful, there when needed but unobtrusive.  The apartment is clean and stylish; a place we really enjoyed retreating to.  There is nothing they have not thought of to make for a very comfortable stay.
    Of course we loved the garden and have great admiration for the obvious hard work they have put into it to make so many unique and interesting features.  We have spent many an hour sitting on the patio looking out through the brightly coloured flowers and foliage to the spectacular mountain scenery beyond, with only the sound of the water falling into the pool and the occasional croaking of the frogs.  Whichever way you turn there are flowers, shrubs and trees in different settings; all so pleasing to the eye.  An artist's delight!
    A real treat was the four course meal cooked and served by our charming hosts.  Absolutely delicious!  Beautifully presented! (We would liked the recipes for each of the courses! The lemon ice cream was something to die for!)
    We did not walk as much as we'd intended! The tranquil, beautiful surroundings held us here.  We read a lot.  A great read was Gerald Brenan's "South of Granada".  Our furthest walk was to the delightful little villages below Cortijo Opazo, stopping at the teashop in Ferrierola for a very pleasant, simple, lunch.  The villages of the Poquiera valley are well worth visiting too.
    Further afield we found the Alhambra Palace just magical with all its exquisite architecture, decoration and gardens.  Difficult to take it all in first time around.
    Well, sadly we now leave Cortijo Opazo, the sunshine, the natural beauty and the peace, but this taster has left us determined to return very soon!

    With grateful thanks,
    Colin and Patsy
    October 2009.

Apparently they only saw me once, and that was on the last day, but I would like to assure them that whilst not always visible I was there, making sure they had everything they could need for what seems to have been a jolly good holiday.


Yours, incognito,


Fergus

Ella blogging

hi. me here. fergus the grmup isnt looknig so its me, blogigng! hes going to be mad wehn he finds out. butt eye downt kayr look at me im swmiming, in a pool thas is about 2800 meters up in the ski. wow was it codl! next pikter is weyre we whent, a hil cawled el caballo. way abov lanjaron. 3006 meters in all. you can just mak out the peek, a bit left of senter

this won showz me and robot rasing up to teh top

and heyr is teh veyw form the top. wow!


this nekst won is the layke i swam in. coowl, eh?


and this is me, triying to lik the clowds. they kept movnig!


theze fings kept movign tow, but i neerly cuaght one

argh, fergus is coming, beter go. what is a blog anyway? what hapens if i pres this buton that sayz 'publish blog'

The Return of the Fiestas

Just when I thought it was safe to take myself on a stroll around the neighbouring fields and sniff ways then I discover that the arrival of Autumn has brought with it a whole new season of fiestas in the local villages of the Alpujarras. This time it is the turn of those who did not set the hillside on fire with summer fiestas, namely the village of Fondales and our own village of Pórtugos. I have commented on my natural canine aversion to the releasing of fireworks in a previous blog so I will not go on at length. In Pórtugos, though, Friday night saw the virgin of the little chapel on the outskirts of the village, Virgen de las Angustias, lifted up onto the shoulders of select village men and transported to the main church, to sit next to her friend, Virgen de Rosario - accompanied by much noise from the exploding fireworks. Saturday night saw Angustias parade around the streets of the village, accompanied by a band and once again much noise from exploding fireworks. This even included a rather impressive display of ornamental fireworks, which to me seem better value for money than the noisy ones, but I had to bark at each and every one none the less. Tonight, after her weekend break, Angustias will be returned to her little chapel and every step of the way will be accompanied by a battery of noisy exploding fireworks. So, along with a slice of local village life it's headaches all round until next fiesta season - early December I believe.

This weekend is special all over Spain as it is the national holiday of the Virgen de Pilar, patron saint of Spain. Otherwise it is know as the Puente de Pilar and it seems that after this date it's heads down for the less agreeable weather to come, and the ice cream sellers in the Plaza Bib Rambla in Granada pack up their freezers.

Speaking of weather, though, it could not be better. Summer seems to be making itself known once more, with temperatures on the coast heading towards 30 degrees, and in the mountains, the conditions are perfect for walking. With this in mind I accompanied the tall ones on one of their treks, from Capileira to Trevelez via the high pastures above. A walk of about 17 kms that kept us at an altitude of about 2000 metres for much of the way. Here's a little photo montage to give you an impression of the excursion:




Concerns were shown for my ability or willingness to complete the trip, but truth is, with the cool fresh air along with the warmth of the sun, it was a doddle for this particular dachshund.

Yours, with paws of steel,

Fergus

Autumn days

I gave Ella a pinch and a punch this morning to mark the occasion of the 1st of October but she didn't appreciate the reminder and ran out of the house yelping. But today truly is a glorious Autumn morning, the mist is gathering and dispersing in the valley below whilst above the sky is a bright blue. A heavy dew sits on the leaves and branches in the garden, and our morning walk freshened our very cores - I would have said 'soul' but I believe there is a debate as to whether animals actually have 'souls' so I will leave that issue to one side. Below is a picture of some of the dreadful weather we have experienced here recently, sent courtesy of Jim Beale. What a downpour it was, just look at the cascade of water on the right hand side, tumbling over the rocks and into the courtyard. Luckily more characteristic sunny weather has returned, today we went for a walk on the beach at Motril and it felt for all the world as though summer had returned, and you must know how I feel about summer.


Christine and John Rabjohns were fortunate enough to have missed these extreme conditions and have recently returned back to the UK after 10 days of walking in some very good September weather. Well done to them for having covered such a good amount of the numerous walks that are available here.

As I write this I can hear, coming through the window, the clack clack sound of the sticks beating the almond trees in the grove across the way from us. It is almond harvesting season here. Below the trees are spread green nets. The men thrust long sticks into the trees and beat the branches whilst the women gather the nuts that fall below. Afterwards they have to be husked and the hard shells cracked off. It's difficult work, but seemingly enjoyable, working outside as a family in the Autumn sunshine. This year the harvest is very good indeed since there were no late spring frosts to kill off the tender flower buds. It is good that we have a strong almond harvest since much of the locally grown fresh produce has been destroyed by the hail stones that fell in the aforementioned storm. All our tomatoes have damaged skins and are now in the stew pot; we are unlikely to see any more this year. But in hope of harvests to come now is the time to be planting our winter vegetables. As foreman of this self contained little empire here it is time I organised my workers.

Yours, with clipboard in paw,

Fergus.