Cortijo Opazo revisited

Just look at that silly girl in the above picture. I mean, of course, the one in the middle, the one with her mouth open and her teeth showing, thinking she's something special. How embarrassing for us all. Tracie and Eric arrived last night, for their fifth stay here, and what a pleasure it is to see them again, second time this year! It's a wonder they come back at all, knowing they have to out up with Ella and her riduculous coquettish carryings on.

Once more fabulous smells have been emerging from the kitchen at Cortijo Opazo as the tall one know as William prepares one his banquet meals. Last night Eric and Tracie enjoyed a dinner of: a tapas of creamed courgette and parmesan with a glass of ice cold fino; a starter of homemade gazpacho with tomatoes from the garden; a maincourse of chicken cooked with hazelnuts, cinamon and honey, accompanied by carrots and green beans, from the garden, of course; and a dessert of raspberry ice cream with a fresh fruit coolie. Yum.

Ella and I, we had dog chunks in gravy with a side dish of complete meal biscuits - again!

Last day of August and in Spain the big return to work is underway. Madrileños are leaving Andalucia in their thousands to start back at work on Septmber 1st. Holidays over, no more fiestas until, well, the first week in October. Then there's the end of October, and of course November 1st. Not forgetting the two holidays in the first week of December until we arrive at the long celebration of Christmas, starting on December 24th and finishing Jaunary 6th. I think, then, we can take a break from holidays and squeeze in a little work.

Yours, hanging up my swimming trunks,

Fergus

Fiestas go with a bang

I've no wish to be a 'party pooper' but I'm glad to see the back of the fiesta season. It's not that I don't appreciate the sound of a brass band striking up from the village square with appropriately rousing music, nor the fact that the local area can be full to bursting with participants at the fiestas. I can enjoy the programme of activities laid on for residents and visitors alike and understand these activities can make a welcome break from what can sometimes seems like a relentless progression of one hot day after another during August. Even the loud amplified music that continues throughout the night until sun up the following day I can block out by using my paws to press my rather long and handsome ears against my dachshund head - I'm not sure what Ella does with her silly little flaps of ear skin - but the one thing I cannot ignore or abide is the fireworks. Every fiesta announces its iniciation with a battery of loud bangs. These heart stopping explosions continue to punctuate the day and night at seemingly random intervals, including in the morning, just half an hour after the night time music has finally come to a halt and neighbours might think it safe to try and grab some sleep, up strikes the band and these startling fireworks, the ones that go 'bang' without further merit to their existence. Not to be forgotten are the displays. At Cortijo Opazo we enjoy a tranquil spot in the countryside surrounded by a collection of no less than eight villages, all within short walking distance. Most of these mount a colourful and LOUD display during their appropriate celebrations, and we can enjoy each and every one of them. Fabulous for the firework afficionado, but for us canines, sworn enemy of the unexplained noise, it makes life very challenging. We are duty bound to bark a such unpredictable occurances, and continue barking until they cease. I know this is to the annoyance of the tall ones I live with, but I have no alternative, it is in my genes and is an instinctive part of my terrier dachshund nature. Ella, as a mongrel, just cowers behind the sofa, what use is that to anyone? But it does upset our constitution and puts our nerves on edge. It's affecting my appetite too, and now, I simply can't get enough food! There was a lovely lady here earlier in the summer who continually gave me extra treats; sadly she only stayed a week - but I hear she is making a return for Christmas, have we ordered the turkey yet?

The month of August starts with the week of cultural activities in Portugos. Very civilised, the day times are spent with workshops for the members of the village, how to make a butterfly out of a old plastic bottle, an alien looking frog from a papier mache covered balloon, or a drama workshop. The evenings are spent showing pictures of various village activities during the year on an open air screen. But most important are the theatrcial presentations done by all age ranges of the village community, Portugos is very keen on theatre. Then come the Fiestas Patronales, the fiestas of the patron saints of the other villages. These vary from village to village but would usually have the format of a Mass in the church - with fireworks - a parade around the streets of the village with a statue of the patron saint - with fireworks - a brass band - with fireworks - a game session for the children - announced with fireworks - an all night dance - also announced with fireworks - and a colourful firmework display - with fireworks, of course. The order seems to go, first weekend in August, Atalbeitar, followed by Mecina and Mecinilla, then the large fiestas of Pitres to coincide with the national Spanish holiday of August 15th, then a suggestion of a fiesta in the villages of Capilerilla and Fondales, terminating with the third weekend of August and the fiestas of Ferrierola, which includes a large communal paella dish for all to share, and a full scale water fight in which no prisoners are taken. In addition this year we have had the Music In the Mountains season and the celebration of 10 years of the National Park of the Sierra Nevada by performing various musical itmes including a version of Beethoven's Hymm to Joy done in Alpujarran style - this even appeared on the national television news.

So, all in all, August is an active time up here in the Alpujarras, and for us dachshunds, a trying one. This is why I will be pleased to see the back of the fiesta season - that is until October, when Portugos mounts its own fiesta to its patron saint, and the biggest display of fireworks out of all the villages.

Yours, with ear plugs to close at paw,

Fergus

A Walk in High Summer

After the somewhat intense heat of recent weeks, then the storms of a few days ago, the temperatures seem to have settled down to a day time maximum of 28 degrees. This morning the air had a freshness about it and the sky was a deep and cloudless blue, so we all decided to chance it and go for a walk up to the waterfalls. The path takes us past our home village of Pórtugos, past some fields that are in cultivation, then above one of the main irrigation channels of the area and into an area of wild mountain vegetation mainly populated by encina and Pyrenean oak trees with various wild cistus and Spanish broom below. The going in such areas is never easy for a dachshund who inhabits a world very close to the uneven ground, but I did my best and valiantly kept up with my walking companions. Ella, as ever, was prancing about from rock to gully, but the two tall ones maintained a steady pace.

Shortly after an hour we arrived at our destination, the 'Area Recreativa de Pórtugos' and the waterfalls of the Junto de los Rios. Could you ever wish for a more refreshing spot to rest in on a hot summer's day? In the deep gorge below the waterfall there is a continual fine mist designed to offer the most delightful of cooling properties. Higher up, where the two rivers meet, there are a series of shallow pools and gentle cascades for the intrepid visitor to splash and wallow in. There could not be a more perfect spot to while away a hot August day.

As a sturdy dachshund, though, I am not built for heat and protested when my companions suggested we continue the walk further up the mountainside. The sun was now high in the sky and I was in danger of missing my siesta, so at my insistence, we returned via a different steep path that took us past more water courses and under some magnificent old chestnut trees. I suspect, though, that I was not the only one feeling the heat of the walk. Ella is currently curled up, for once quiet, and the two tall ones are snoring their way through the hour of siesta.

On returning to the house I was sorry to see that the lovely young couple who had been staying with us for nearly two weeks, during which time they announced their engagement, had left to catch their bus and then plane back to the UK - I was still hoping to be offered the role of best man at the wedding. They seem to have enjoyed their holiday and were kind enough to write the following in our guest book:

What a wonderful place to stay! Our first holiday in two years and so well worth the wait. From relaxing in the many corners of the garden, to serious walking in the hot, hot countryside, to splashing in the waterfalls and pools, oh yes, and eating lots of yummy tapas! Can't quite believe we have been here almost two weeks, but I could definitely be here for longer. So much to do and so many places to relax. Pitres is a very friendly village, bar Paco, Zumo de Piña (very nice), or the old lady in the Coviran supermarket who gives you a hug! It feels like a second home. Robert and William have been very welcoming and also really helpful with advice on things to do, thank you for a really memorable holiday. I also could not have dreamt of getting engaged in a more magical and romantic place.
Ella and Fergus rock!
Lizzie and Kyle, Bath, UK, staying in El Lújar, August 2009

How kind, but surely they should have said: 'Fergus rocks whilst Ella helps out with random percussion'.

More from me soon, now doubt, since it is fiesta weekend in Pitres.

Yours, rocking on,

Fergus.

Don't tell anyone, but it's raining

Summer has been on our mind a considerable amount recently, mainly, I suspect, due to the fact that it is here and it is a hot one. That is until today. Having lived in the Alpujarras almost six years now we are getting to know what to expect of the weather: that Autumn will unfold slowly and beautifully with warm weather lingering into November; early December will see the first real snow fall and start of the ski season; mid Winter will probably be mild with stunningly clear blue sky days; late winter will bring snow and or rain; Spring will be delightful but with some surprises; and Summer will be long and hot. However, one of our elderly neighbours, he who we meet at the crack of dawn on our watering days, maintains that on or around the 15th August the weather will change and there will be a day or two of rain. This year, along with many of the previous, he is right. Yesterday the clouds gathered, during the night we heard the thunder rumble and today we enjoyed the rain as it fell in showers. Now it is sunny once more, and tomorrow the long hot summer will return, but what a welcome respite this has been for us - although I think it came as an unwelcome surprise for our English guests, Kyle and Lizzie, who are happily escaping the rather wet 'barbeque summer' in the UK. The couple from Madrid that are also staying at Cortijo Opazo seem perfectly content with the fact that it is cooler here than in the oven that their home city becomes in summer.

And speaking of Kyle and Lizzie, Ella and I send our congratulations and best wishes to them on hearing they had become engaged - to each other - on their first night here. What a romantic spot we must have. I imagine the tall ones also extend their felicitations.

Kyle made reference to an old friend of his who has been asked to be the best man but I wonder if he acted too hastily and has neglected to consider the sense of decorum that a Dachshund could bring to such a role and such an occasion.

Yours, with speech prepared,

Fergus

Summer concert

It all paid off. All the work, all the weeding and trimming, pruning and strimming, all the frantic activity of the recent weeks all came together for the evening of July 24th. The garden was looking gorgeous as were, might I add, myself and Ella. The borders of the lawn were straight, the plants had been well watered during the week to ensure they were looking their best and all dead heads were removed. Water was trickling through the newly built garden fountain, and the breeze was lightly drifting through the ornamental grasses. A little after 7.30pm the public started to arrive and were able to spend time wandering around the gardens, appreciating what is a very singular sight in the area, swathes of herbaceous borders. Chairs were scattered around the square garden and the musicians were carrying out last minute rehearsals from the apartment 'La Corona'.

But boy was it hot! One of the hottest days of the year. Daytime temperatures had reached 34 degrees and it was all we could do to stop ourselves from wilting.

The concert, though, was a delight. About 65 guests turned up to enjoy the music, and the programme itself was a well thought out mixture of Vaughn Williams, Bach, and Mozart along with traditional Spanish music. Performers were The Quintessential Quartet from England - Alistair Kennedy, Amanda Rowden-Martin, Graham Gillham and Cat Jary; Klaartje van Veldoven, international soprano from Holland; and her partner, Rembrandt Frerichs, famous Dutch jazz pianist; José Manuel Muñoz, clarinetist from Seville; and Pepe Milan, local banduria player. Click on the play symbol below to see a little of what the evening had to offer.

My only complaint is against the tall ones, William and Robert. Having done all we could to assist them in the preceding weeks and days, were we allowed to sit amongst the audience offering our heart felt appreciation for the performance? No we were not! Shortly before the concert started we were lured into the house with promise of some dried biscuit or other, then shut up in one of the rooms there. We had to content ourselves by enjoying the music as it glided in through the open window, but we made our appreciation known by barking along at times in support of the louder pieces and the applause of the other listeners. It was as though we had been removed to the upper tiers of the circle where the seats have restricted viewing. Our only consolation was to know that whilst clearing up later, William's Mother, who fortunately for us is staying here at the moment, would surely slip us some more tasty morsels to compensate us for our captivity.

That was our third summer concert and we hope to continue the tradition of inviting people to our garden to enjoy the space and culture on offer.

Yours, watching from the circle,

Fergus

Flea in my ear

I've got a flea in my ear today, at least that's what it feels like. Most annoying. It's hot and I can't sit still for this constant irritation in my ear. I'm not sure if it is a sting or just a wayward grass seed. I've tried shaking my head vigorously from side to side to see if I can shift it, but no luck. If it were Ella shaking her head it would probably fall off and roll into the compost heap, so flimsy and fragile is her frame, but I'm a sturdy pedigree dachshund with strong features. Can you imagine how much energy I have to expend to shake this hefty brain box of mine. Then there are the ears. A rapid swivelling motion of the head causes then to flap vigorously, like some elephantine helicpopter. First under my chin then on the top of my head, each one consequetively, one after the other, beating me as they pursue their percussive path. It sends me into a stupified daze, but anything is better then this pain in my ear, if only I could dislodge it. The tall ones have tried poking their sausage like fingers into my auditory passage but only make matter worse, so I'm going to spend the rest of the day in the gloomy shade under the table trying to sleep and block out this sensation of having a flea in my ear, one that has taken up fencing for a hobby.

Before I sign off, I'd just like to mention Natalie and Robin, who appeared in a previous Dogblog. They left us on Wednesday, full of compliments about their stay here. This is what they were kind enough to write in the guest book:

What a stunning place, gorgeous gardens, enchanting cortijo, the most relaxing holiday we've had in a long time. As the other guests have said we would thoroughly recommend the four course meal, incredibly romantic and tasty. The walk to the waterfalls was perhaps not advisable in the full heat of July but the waters were worth the climb. Should recommend more but we took full advantage of lounging in the beautiful gardens and unwinding in this gorgeous place.
Natalie and Robin, July 2009

There seems a hushed quietness in the countryside around as the heat of summer starts to makes its presence felt and the locals gird themselves for the onset of fiesta season. For us, it's just one week until the garden concert.

Yours, from some sulky corner,

Fergus

PS - Haven't received any suggestions for fruit and vegetable related music as mentioned in my last blog, so I can't publish any.

Music in the Mountains

Sunday evening saw us going down to the lovely local village of Mecina for a delightful event, one of the concerts in the Music in the Mountains festival - a season of musical events that takes place throughout the year in the Alpujarras. In the summer many of the performances take place outside in rather informal situations. Last night a group from Oxford, UK, were performing their own choice of music on an Era in the village of Mecina - an Era being an old threshing circle. I recorded a rather scratchy video of the occasion but I feel it is worth listening to just to get a feel for the music.

The group had a rather unusual name, Potato Potato, but it seemed somehow fitting given their rustic agricultural environment. I wandered down to our vegtable bed this morning to see if any of our crops could inspire me to music, but alas all I could come up with were the ideas:

It's been a chard days night
All you need is loveage
Eat me tender
Strawberry fields forever
Hey Judia (Spanish, for bean)
You're getting to be a habas (Spanish for broad bean) with me
Somewhere over the rainbow chard

Any more contributions? Please email them to us: info(at)cortijoopazo.com

One of the more significant events in the fiesta calendar in Spain is the Bull Running in Pamplona, otherwise know as the Festival of San Fermin, an event fully supported and organised by the town hall, and filmed in its entirety by national TV channels.

During the second week in July Pamplona stages many days of bull fighting. To move the fated animals to the bull ring the bulls are released, early in the morning, from the other side of town. They are then encouraged to charge along a barricaded route of a little under 1 kilometre. Soon after they start running they encounter streets that are full of mostly men dressed in white with red neck scarves, who proceed to run with them, at risk of personal injury and sometimes death. This year there has indeed been a fatal injury but the fiesta continued as planned. The poor runner was buried the day after he was gored on the horn of a bull and he has become a sort of hero of the day. If you wish to see more of this then have a look at this link, although it is upsetting to watch it all.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lpz22RpsgpI

Much is still said about bull fighting and bull running in Spain. In 2003 a group of protesters started the idea of 'Running with the Nudes' and in protest initiated a tradition of running naked along the designated route three days before the festival starts. Apparently in the first year, when 25 people made such a protest, the locals were outraged at this moral affront. Now, just 6 year later, hundreds participate and it is regarded as another fun Spanish fiesta event that prolongs the celebrations and brings in more tourists and therefore more money. If you wish to have a look, then here's the link.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OzZy45Yg86I

Warning, there is no actual nudity to be seen.

Yours, from behind the camera but sitting on the fence,

Fergus

PS If you would like to receive an email from my assistant at Cortijo Opazo whenever I publish my Dogblog, please send in a request to info(at)cortijoopazo.com - the (at) is a clever code for @ that few but the most intelligent can crack, but hopefully not those internet spammers.