A little drop of rain....

Pitres in the glow of Christmas sunshine

The second half of December and most of January is usually a beautiful time here in the Alpujarras. One can normally expect to find settled weather with a good number of sunny days, and nights that are clear and frosty. Not so this year, it would seem. With little rain in November and October we all welcomed the forecast of some heavy showers as we approached Christmas. Finally the rain started on December 20th; light rain becoming steady, the very best sort, the type of rain that slowly penetrates the dry earth until it receives a good soaking. But then it grew stronger and become a downpour, something a dachshund would not voluntarily venture out into. And it kept on falling. By Christmas Eve, the sodden ground could take no more and it started to move. First of all the footpaths slipped a little and one or two of the bridges weakend. Rocks fell on to roads and trees were blown over as the wind built in strength. The often gentle mountain streams turned into waterfalls as all around the valleys gave voice to a great roar of cascading water. A reminder that our mountains are not always tame.

Rio Bermejo - the island you can see towards the top is where the bridge used to be.

The GR7 between Cortijo Opazo and Pitres - the site where the foot bridge once was.

As a dachshund, it has been calculated that I must have a two day bladder, meaning that I can stay indoors without having to relieve myself for about two days. But eventually even I had to set paw outside. Ears flapping in the wind I was dismayed to discover the extent of some very local damage. Our morning walk has now all but vanished, the bridge washed away along with half the side of the gorge in a landslide. In just a few days we have had 400 mm of rain, that's 400 litres of water per metre squared. And it is still raining.

But this is all good for the garden in the long term, the flowers of early summer are sure to be glorious and maybe at last those bones I planted might start to shoot in the spring. As the two tall ones say, we never complain about the rain in Andalucia, every drop is welcome. The agents responsible have set about making repairs; all roads have been quickly re-opened and already work has begun repairing the tracks and paths. Nature has roared but will be calmed once more.

It's now New Year's Eve, the house is full and my two legged companions are cooking for the guests. I'm still getting fat on turkey skin and Ella is going stir crazy since she hasn't had a decent walk for more than two weeks. The Dogblog is almost a year old now, so whilst you await the arrival of 2010 why not cast a glance back at some of the entries I have made during the year.

Time for me to think up some New Year resolutions for Ella to keep.

Best wishes for the year to come,

Yours, looking for a piece of coal to do my 'first pawing',

Fergus.

PS - Is it natural for a dog to like satsumas? Ella has a passion for them, but then Ella can develop a passion about a draught blowing under a door.

All I want for Christmas.

It's hard to believe that we are entering Christmas week and I've scarcely updated my Dogblog more than once this month. Business wise the main event has been the double national holiday tacked on to the weekend of December 5th. The motive for the double celebration is that there is one day off for the Fiesta of the Immaculate Virgin, and one day off to celebrate the National Day of the Constitution - an important date for Spain since there are many people here who remember a time when Spain was not a democracy and did not have a constitution. The reality is that for many Spanish this is the holiday when everyone should head for the mountains to catch the last glimpses of Autumn and maybe even glimpse the newly fallen snow. During this weekend the Alpujarras was full to bursting point.

The garden is gradually falling into its winter sleep, but there are some striking winter colours to be seen. I try to get out during the afternoons when I can to see what the two tall ones are up to and have been pleasantly surprised to see them working hard on the far section of the land erecting some form of winter warmth tunnel. It is a most agreeable place to pass a breezy afternoon, but I hope they don't fill it up with too many plants otherwise there'll be nowhere left for a dachshund to warm himself and keep out of the occasionally chilly winter wind.


Ella and I are all set for Christmas. We've had a look through the TV programming and have set the DVD player to record 'Slumdog Millionnaire' and 'Dogone with the Wind'. As for gifts, well Ella has sent her letter to Santapaws. I helped her out with the spelling this time, so know that she has requested a pink mobile phone from the 'Hello Kitty' range, although she'll have no idea how to use it. I hope she gets a 'Pay as You Wooff' contract otherwise with the amount of barking she does it will break the bank. Failing that, she'll settle for the song by the winning contestant in X factor, which, due to an untimely power cut, she still thinks was her favourite, Stacey. As for myself, well this year I have shunned the obvious carpet slippers and hot water bottle and have put in a request for an 'iphone' complete with a paws free kit. This way I'm sure I can update my Dogblog with bark recognition and not have to clean the mud off my paws first. Not sure what our neighbours below are planning for the holidays, but I hope that the Christmas sun makes the grass taste sweet for them.


The house is full once more for Christmas and the New year, so I'll have my work cut out. I'll try and squeeze in one more Dogblog before we say 'adios' to 2009. In the meantime, have a great festive season.

Yours, ready to chuck another Yulelog on the fire,

Fergus

Paws for concern? When I arrived in the Alpujarras in 2003 I was the only dachshund in the village - possible the only pedigree. Recently, I have spotted two more youngsters bearing that same elegant long body and fine wirey coat. Two separate but good looking examples of my breed. Have I set a trend or am I being challenged? Watch this space.

The Return

It was good to be able to welcome back Eric and Margaret for an Autumn holiday at Cortijo Opazo, they've been coming here longer than Ella has been around, and they make a lot more sense too! For example, and I quote from their comment in our guest book:

I am sure that saying this is our ninth visit to Cortijo Opazo says how much we enjoy the area an most of all Robert's and William's hospitality. As always the apartment was immaculate. Once again we enjoyed one of William's delightful meals.
During our eight day stay we have experienced all weathers from sun bathing on our second day to tramping in the first snow of the winter today (November 30th) - this was up at Hoya del Portillo above Capileira. We were pleased to be able to achieve another 3000 metre peak, El Caballo, approached from Lanjaron by a mountain track. Whilst walking in the Rio Toril we were delighted to spot two groups of Ibex - eight in total.
It has been interesting seeing how the garden has matured over the years and hearing the plans for its further development.

Eric and Margaret, November 2009

I am sure the guests who follow will also be grateful to them since Eric, in his enthusiasm for chopping, left behind more fire wood than he burnt, all collected free from the mountainside.

Yours, enjoying the fireside,

Fergus

Away on holiday

Many apologies for those of you for whom I am sure the arrival of my latest Dogblog is a much anticipated event, but I have been on my holidays. We all have, myself, the two tall ones, and even Ella was included. Our destination was the ancient town of Lagos on the Algarve coast of southern Portugal, a foreign country for which this dog did not even have to show his passport. We stayed in a small but very well located complex called Dona Ana Garden and as an economical but comfortable choice we would certainly recommend it.

It has to be said that we dogs are creatures of habit, content with a regular daily routine and like nothing more than to know where we are and what's expected of us. Why else do you thinking we can show daily excitement at meal times when the same sloppy brown goo is served up, day after day? Of course the occasional savoury surprise extra is always welcome, be we expect and are content with the monotony of our daily nourishment. I explain all this to illustrate that routine is part of our makeup, it is in our doggy nature, and as such we don't necessarily need to be packed into the back of a car for six hours in order to change this routine by way of a holiday. Holidays are, I believe, an entirely human concept, unless, of course, you count the annual migration of birds, fish and wilder beasts across the plains of Africa.

Not wishing to be too ungrateful, though, I did enjoy the new smells of the Portuguese streets and the chance to let the wind blow back my ears on the expansive and empty golden beaches of the western Atlantic coast. What I did not enjoy was being towed around various towns on the end of a lead and not being allowed to stop and sniff at each and every lamp post, kerb stone or litter bin. If you have time to spare you could play the video below to gain some idea of the experience I had to endure.


Coastal holidays are all well and good, but since moving to Spain I have become a mountain dog, and so the only place I can truly recommend for a memorable break from routine is a stay at Cortijo Opazo.


But now, at long last up here in the mountains, the rain is falling and this may well turn to snow, so it's time to light the fire a curl up with with a collection of poetry. I've heard that T. S Eliot has been voted the nation's favourite poet by a BBC poll, chiefly, I expect, due to his 'Old Possum's Book of Practical Cats' that was popularised and vulgarised by a theatrical musical with a much briefer name. I'm going to see what the fuss is all about and try inventing some poetry about canine escapades.


Yours, dreaming of being Poet Laureate,


Fergus

Memories are made of .....

It looks to me as though I can look forward to many years of happy, well fed retirement - would that it arrive soon.  Cans of meaty Covidog food are unlikely to be in short supply.  I know this because we have received a stream of well meant compliments about the holiday experience here at Cortijo Opazo, all of which bode well for our continued success. I don't wish to blow our collective trumpet in an inappropriate manner, but if you have time, you might appreciate  a persusal of the comments that some of our recent guests have made:

We've had a lovely week here: walking and enjoying the views, peace and tranquility of both the local area and of the cortijo.  Of the walks, we recommend seeking out those that follow old mule tracks or paths rather than the forest pistas (tracks) which are much less characterful - the walk down the hill from Cortijo Opazo and around the valley opposite follows some of the wonderful mule trails which are redolent of the history of the area.  We discovered that any water at this time of year is going to be far too cold for immersion (though we did meet a stark naked Spaniard on the hill above the big waterfall who claimed that a dip was just the thing!) The villages are endlessly fascinating, but it's great also to have the contrast of seeing some of the higher countryside, where you can really get the feeling of being far from civilisation.  The mountains are BIG and steep, but there are some delightful acequias which follow gentle gradients: our favourite was Acequia Sierra, west of La Cebadilla above Capileira.

Thanks to Robert and William for all the care that has gone into making this a beautiful and easy place to stay - we will certainly recommend you to friends and family.  The four course meal was very special!  Many thanks.
                Rose and Steve, October 2009

An encounter with a naked Spaniard is not something we can guarantee here at Cortijo Opazo, but if it might add to your holiday experience, I guess we can look into it.  Our next guests made no report of such matters, but none the less had a stimulating time here:

We have had a wonderful week here at the cortijo.  The Alpujarras are beautiful with plenty of walking opportunities, combined with the garden here where lots of relaxation and reading happened.  Robert and William are great hosts and fantastic cooks.  Only regret is that we left it to the last evening to sample their cooking so no chance to have a second meal!  Many thanks for a great stay and being so considerate.


Dave and Gaby, El Lújar October 2009.

Thank you Dave and Gaby, I'm pleased that Robert's spicey Morrocan vegetables with cous cous did the trick for you.  The next comment is from a couple who have become very at home here, and, in my opinion, a little too free with with the local dogs.  If anyone deserves any morsels from the table, it is primarily ME!

  

The problems encountered at 5.00am at East Midlands airport when, on this occasion, Roger wanted to bring his road bike here, soon disappeared when we finally reached Cortijo Opazo, to be warmly greeted once again by Fergus, Ella and, of course, William and Robert.  A quick stop at Paco's beforehand would mark the beginning of what was to be another wonderful week.

This has been our 3rd stay within the last 12 months, and with another week booked here for next Spring,... what more can be said.

As previously, we ordered one of Robert and William's meals to be ready on the evening of our arrival. What a scrummy meal it was too! As a result we enjoyed a different meal each evening. Did we have a favourite? - No!! They were all delicious! We saved out gourmet meal for the penultimate evening. What a wonderful meal it was too! And so beautifully presented. With the warm evening in late October we were able to enjoy the meal on the terrace with the moon and Jupiter perfectly positioned above.

We admit to spoiling the shepherd's dogs. They need spoiling! Tula and her "gang" are lovely..... We hope they stay safe until we return!! We walked and Roger cycled. He loves the roads. The weather has been wonderful all week with the autumnal colours dominating the landscape.

Dear Robert and William - thank you so much for making us welcome once again! For providing us with excellent food and accommodation and a setting "to die for"!! Roll on next Spring....

Barbara and Roger, October 2009

Thank you Roger and Barbara, I'll see to it personaly that the shepherd's dogs get the food you left behind for them.  Honest I will!  

It has to be said, October has been a good deal warmer than one might expect and the trees don't know whether to shed their leaves or sprout new ones.  In the same vein, Ella and I don't know whether to shed our thin summer coat of fur and bring forth our winter coat, or resort to the to a turn with the garden strimmer.  Despite being the end of October the stove in the main part of the house has not been lit, so I remain nostaligic for winters past and hopeful for the snow that is yet to fall.


Yours, in mid molt,


Fergus.

Chestnuts and wood smoke.

The season of Autumn is one that aptly suits a dog such as I.  It is slow to arrive but when in full force it can be magnificent.  Dazzling blue skies providing the contrast for the kaleidoscope of leafy colours.  The high mountains here are dressed with the first fall of snow, as has happened this week, and the streams in the hidden valleys fill with babbling fresh water.  Here in the Alpujarras it is also 'Bottoms in the Air' season; a strange annual custom that never fails.  Along the footpaths and sides of the road you can clearly see locals and visitors alike bent over with their rear quarters in the air.  One of the emblematic tress of the region are its magnificent chestnuts, from which many of the houses are constructed.  At this time of the year they drop their bounty of sweet chestnuts, wrapped in prickly husks.  It is these that the tall ones are searching for on the woodland floor, sweet chestnuts.  Hands foraging amongst newly fallen leaves, bottoms proudly in the air.  Once gathered, they are conveyed to open fire or stove to roast, burn and throw out onto the ground once more.  The art of roasting and peeling a chestnut is s tricky one, but it is reason enough for many Spanish families to come up to the mountains at this most favoured time of year.

I'm not keen of chestnuts.  It's not their flavour but the feel of them that I detest.  If you see the world from my point of view you will understand.  Imagine the floor of a narrow footpath strewn ten centimetres deep with sharp needle covered chestnut husks.  Then imagine your legs are only fifteen centimetres long and that parts of your body barely clear the ground when you walk.  Would you choose to delight in the Autumn spectacle of a chestnut wood and enjoy walking under its ancient bows as you pick your way through a million intrusive sharp points?

One of the prettier sights of Autumn are the wild crocus (crocus nudiflorus) that cover the mountainside at an altitude of about 2000 metres.  The spring ones largely seem to be whiter whilst the Autumn ones appear in delightful lilac.

All things considered, though, Autumn is very agreeable to a dachshund, most of all because in the months to come he can enjoy the prospect of the fire being lit and the hearth rug rolled out.


Yours, dreaming of wood smoke,


Fergus

Great Expectations!

Hello Dogblog followers, I hope we have all overcome the trauma of the previous entry.  Ella has been put in her place I will make sure it never happens again.  Of course nobody could have understood what she was gabbling on about, I blame her modern education system - or complete lack of it.  In the meantime, let's ponder on some pleasanter matters, namely the holiday enjoyed here recently by Patsy and Colin.


    This is our first stay in the Alpujarras and indeed in Southern Spain and it won't be our last!  
    Cortijo Opazo was our final venue in our three week holiday, having stayed near Orgiva and then Lanjaron before coming here.  We can honestly now say that we saved the best till last; it has exceeded all our expectations.
    Robert and William are perfect hosts, very welcoming on our arrival, friendly and helpful, there when needed but unobtrusive.  The apartment is clean and stylish; a place we really enjoyed retreating to.  There is nothing they have not thought of to make for a very comfortable stay.
    Of course we loved the garden and have great admiration for the obvious hard work they have put into it to make so many unique and interesting features.  We have spent many an hour sitting on the patio looking out through the brightly coloured flowers and foliage to the spectacular mountain scenery beyond, with only the sound of the water falling into the pool and the occasional croaking of the frogs.  Whichever way you turn there are flowers, shrubs and trees in different settings; all so pleasing to the eye.  An artist's delight!
    A real treat was the four course meal cooked and served by our charming hosts.  Absolutely delicious!  Beautifully presented! (We would liked the recipes for each of the courses! The lemon ice cream was something to die for!)
    We did not walk as much as we'd intended! The tranquil, beautiful surroundings held us here.  We read a lot.  A great read was Gerald Brenan's "South of Granada".  Our furthest walk was to the delightful little villages below Cortijo Opazo, stopping at the teashop in Ferrierola for a very pleasant, simple, lunch.  The villages of the Poquiera valley are well worth visiting too.
    Further afield we found the Alhambra Palace just magical with all its exquisite architecture, decoration and gardens.  Difficult to take it all in first time around.
    Well, sadly we now leave Cortijo Opazo, the sunshine, the natural beauty and the peace, but this taster has left us determined to return very soon!

    With grateful thanks,
    Colin and Patsy
    October 2009.

Apparently they only saw me once, and that was on the last day, but I would like to assure them that whilst not always visible I was there, making sure they had everything they could need for what seems to have been a jolly good holiday.


Yours, incognito,


Fergus

Ella blogging

hi. me here. fergus the grmup isnt looknig so its me, blogigng! hes going to be mad wehn he finds out. butt eye downt kayr look at me im swmiming, in a pool thas is about 2800 meters up in the ski. wow was it codl! next pikter is weyre we whent, a hil cawled el caballo. way abov lanjaron. 3006 meters in all. you can just mak out the peek, a bit left of senter

this won showz me and robot rasing up to teh top

and heyr is teh veyw form the top. wow!


this nekst won is the layke i swam in. coowl, eh?


and this is me, triying to lik the clowds. they kept movnig!


theze fings kept movign tow, but i neerly cuaght one

argh, fergus is coming, beter go. what is a blog anyway? what hapens if i pres this buton that sayz 'publish blog'

The Return of the Fiestas

Just when I thought it was safe to take myself on a stroll around the neighbouring fields and sniff ways then I discover that the arrival of Autumn has brought with it a whole new season of fiestas in the local villages of the Alpujarras. This time it is the turn of those who did not set the hillside on fire with summer fiestas, namely the village of Fondales and our own village of Pórtugos. I have commented on my natural canine aversion to the releasing of fireworks in a previous blog so I will not go on at length. In Pórtugos, though, Friday night saw the virgin of the little chapel on the outskirts of the village, Virgen de las Angustias, lifted up onto the shoulders of select village men and transported to the main church, to sit next to her friend, Virgen de Rosario - accompanied by much noise from the exploding fireworks. Saturday night saw Angustias parade around the streets of the village, accompanied by a band and once again much noise from exploding fireworks. This even included a rather impressive display of ornamental fireworks, which to me seem better value for money than the noisy ones, but I had to bark at each and every one none the less. Tonight, after her weekend break, Angustias will be returned to her little chapel and every step of the way will be accompanied by a battery of noisy exploding fireworks. So, along with a slice of local village life it's headaches all round until next fiesta season - early December I believe.

This weekend is special all over Spain as it is the national holiday of the Virgen de Pilar, patron saint of Spain. Otherwise it is know as the Puente de Pilar and it seems that after this date it's heads down for the less agreeable weather to come, and the ice cream sellers in the Plaza Bib Rambla in Granada pack up their freezers.

Speaking of weather, though, it could not be better. Summer seems to be making itself known once more, with temperatures on the coast heading towards 30 degrees, and in the mountains, the conditions are perfect for walking. With this in mind I accompanied the tall ones on one of their treks, from Capileira to Trevelez via the high pastures above. A walk of about 17 kms that kept us at an altitude of about 2000 metres for much of the way. Here's a little photo montage to give you an impression of the excursion:




Concerns were shown for my ability or willingness to complete the trip, but truth is, with the cool fresh air along with the warmth of the sun, it was a doddle for this particular dachshund.

Yours, with paws of steel,

Fergus

Autumn days

I gave Ella a pinch and a punch this morning to mark the occasion of the 1st of October but she didn't appreciate the reminder and ran out of the house yelping. But today truly is a glorious Autumn morning, the mist is gathering and dispersing in the valley below whilst above the sky is a bright blue. A heavy dew sits on the leaves and branches in the garden, and our morning walk freshened our very cores - I would have said 'soul' but I believe there is a debate as to whether animals actually have 'souls' so I will leave that issue to one side. Below is a picture of some of the dreadful weather we have experienced here recently, sent courtesy of Jim Beale. What a downpour it was, just look at the cascade of water on the right hand side, tumbling over the rocks and into the courtyard. Luckily more characteristic sunny weather has returned, today we went for a walk on the beach at Motril and it felt for all the world as though summer had returned, and you must know how I feel about summer.


Christine and John Rabjohns were fortunate enough to have missed these extreme conditions and have recently returned back to the UK after 10 days of walking in some very good September weather. Well done to them for having covered such a good amount of the numerous walks that are available here.

As I write this I can hear, coming through the window, the clack clack sound of the sticks beating the almond trees in the grove across the way from us. It is almond harvesting season here. Below the trees are spread green nets. The men thrust long sticks into the trees and beat the branches whilst the women gather the nuts that fall below. Afterwards they have to be husked and the hard shells cracked off. It's difficult work, but seemingly enjoyable, working outside as a family in the Autumn sunshine. This year the harvest is very good indeed since there were no late spring frosts to kill off the tender flower buds. It is good that we have a strong almond harvest since much of the locally grown fresh produce has been destroyed by the hail stones that fell in the aforementioned storm. All our tomatoes have damaged skins and are now in the stew pot; we are unlikely to see any more this year. But in hope of harvests to come now is the time to be planting our winter vegetables. As foreman of this self contained little empire here it is time I organised my workers.

Yours, with clipboard in paw,

Fergus.

Thanks for coming back.

Another gorgeous holiday at Cortijo Opazo! Fourth visit and counting. Second with our daughter Ella - now nine months and loving Robert and William's Ella!! A friend for life! As always, Robert and William, you were perfect hosts. What else can be said other than we'll be back soon.
Jim, Sophie and Ella, September 2009.

These are the kind words left in our guest book by Jim and Sophie, who had a relaxing holiday with us. They saw quite a range of weather, including some of the worse rain and hail ever seen in the area, but they also enjoyed walking in the September sunshine and playing on the lawn with their daughter Ella, who is totally adorable, especially when she smiles, which seems to be much of the time. What she needs to learn is that still waters run deep, and whilst I, as a pedigree dachshund, may not cavort in the cheap manor that canine mongrel Ella does, ultimately, spending time with me is always going to be more satisfying. The tales I can tell and the sniffs I can guide her to are more than she could possibly dream of. But I guess my charms will appeal to her more as she grows older and wiser. Below is a picture of our Ella when she was a puppy. Look at those deceivingly engaging eyes, but notice also her early fondness for STICKS!




Autumn does seem to have come early, although in Spain the last day of summer is officially September 21st and so we are indeed into the season of mellows mists and fruitfulness. An article on the television news announced that this summer has been the hottest since 1970 and the third hottest on record. From my point of view it was a little warm, but really quite bearable as long as I was allowed to remain in the shade. Today, it is windy and we have had 10mm of rain so far. What will the winter ahead bring?

Yours, reaching for a woolly blanket,

Fergus

Someone went to Madrid and left us at home

Throughout the summer they promised us: wait until September and we'll all go on a trip, TOGETHER. A few days away at the seaside, camping, was what they told us. Ella and and I, plus the two tall ones, camping on the Atlantic coast of Spain. What could be more enjoyable? But when it came to pass, what happened? A slight suggestion by the forecast that the weather might be inclement and they were off, at the drop of a dog biscuit. Plans changed, dogs left at home and the two of them minus their canine companions off to Madrid, no doubt to wine and dine themselves, without us.

Admittedly, they left us in very good hands, being cared for by Haidé and Christobal, but a promise is a promise. And granted, the weather was actually awful with tremendous storms across Andalucia that saw more than 60 mm of rain fall in a few hours and caused the death of three people in the province of Jaen, but still, they said we would go together. I can't see what would have been so bad about staying in a wet tent with two soggy dogs, watching the rain lash down outside. I thought our carers were made of stronger stuff.

To show my displeasure when they returned I paid no interest at all when they told us of the hotel they stayed in and how well located it was in the district of Chueca, just off the Gran Via; and I ignored their reports of visiting the two famous art galleries, the Prado and the Reina Sofia. I scorned their enthusiasm for the art works of Velazquez and Goya, Picaso and Dali, and positively yawned when they described a pleasant meander through the exquisite Retiro Park and Royal Botanical Gardens. Tales of a visit to a fashionable alternative theatre built in an old slaughter house to see The House of Bernada Alba did not stir a whisker of reaction from me, neither did the fact that they also found time to go the cinema. I was, though, interested to learn that they encountered no less than three wired haired dachshunds, and am now wondering whether Madrid might make a more suitable residence for someone of my lineage than the mountains of Andalucia. I must work on being included in any return trip.

Yours, with nose in the property pages,

Fergus

PS: Here is a little video footage of the trip - notice the absence of myself and Ella!

Al Fresco Dining

Lesley and Ian from Cheshire have been staying with us for a short break. It was their second visit to Cortijo Opazo and this time their holiday coincided with the celebration of their 35th wedding anniversary. Like many of our guests they were wise enough to request one of William's gourmet meals to mark the occasion, with a tapas of creamed courgette bruschettas, fresh gazpacho soup, pancakes stuffed with assorted vegetables and nuts accompanied by carrots and green beans, and a delicious 'Raspberry Trio' - homemade raspberry icecream with fresh raspberries and a raspberry coolie. Ella and I could only look on, envy in our eyes - for us it was left overs, which is none the less a treat when you see what they are left over from.

Both Ian and Lesley are enthusiastic walkers and I suspect a day in the mountains would stretch a dachshund's short legs more than I might wish. Congratulations to them both on the range of walking covered in just three days, and to Ian for scaling the summit of Mulhacen the long way from Trevelez via the Siete Lagunas. They certainly packed a lot into their stay, and here is what they were kind enough to write in our guest book:

28th August to 1st September

We returned for a second visit after two years to find Cortijo Opazo was even better than we remembered.

Thanks for a great stay and a wonderful meal to celebrate our 35th wedding anniversary. Ian even made it to the top of Mulhacen - having been driven back by a snow storm two years ago.

Lesley and Ian, Cheshire, UK

Now that September is here, maybe I could start planning a few strolls of my own by way of limbering up for the Autumn walking season.

Yours, with GPS in paw,

Fergus

Cortijo Opazo revisited

Just look at that silly girl in the above picture. I mean, of course, the one in the middle, the one with her mouth open and her teeth showing, thinking she's something special. How embarrassing for us all. Tracie and Eric arrived last night, for their fifth stay here, and what a pleasure it is to see them again, second time this year! It's a wonder they come back at all, knowing they have to out up with Ella and her riduculous coquettish carryings on.

Once more fabulous smells have been emerging from the kitchen at Cortijo Opazo as the tall one know as William prepares one his banquet meals. Last night Eric and Tracie enjoyed a dinner of: a tapas of creamed courgette and parmesan with a glass of ice cold fino; a starter of homemade gazpacho with tomatoes from the garden; a maincourse of chicken cooked with hazelnuts, cinamon and honey, accompanied by carrots and green beans, from the garden, of course; and a dessert of raspberry ice cream with a fresh fruit coolie. Yum.

Ella and I, we had dog chunks in gravy with a side dish of complete meal biscuits - again!

Last day of August and in Spain the big return to work is underway. Madrileños are leaving Andalucia in their thousands to start back at work on Septmber 1st. Holidays over, no more fiestas until, well, the first week in October. Then there's the end of October, and of course November 1st. Not forgetting the two holidays in the first week of December until we arrive at the long celebration of Christmas, starting on December 24th and finishing Jaunary 6th. I think, then, we can take a break from holidays and squeeze in a little work.

Yours, hanging up my swimming trunks,

Fergus

Fiestas go with a bang

I've no wish to be a 'party pooper' but I'm glad to see the back of the fiesta season. It's not that I don't appreciate the sound of a brass band striking up from the village square with appropriately rousing music, nor the fact that the local area can be full to bursting with participants at the fiestas. I can enjoy the programme of activities laid on for residents and visitors alike and understand these activities can make a welcome break from what can sometimes seems like a relentless progression of one hot day after another during August. Even the loud amplified music that continues throughout the night until sun up the following day I can block out by using my paws to press my rather long and handsome ears against my dachshund head - I'm not sure what Ella does with her silly little flaps of ear skin - but the one thing I cannot ignore or abide is the fireworks. Every fiesta announces its iniciation with a battery of loud bangs. These heart stopping explosions continue to punctuate the day and night at seemingly random intervals, including in the morning, just half an hour after the night time music has finally come to a halt and neighbours might think it safe to try and grab some sleep, up strikes the band and these startling fireworks, the ones that go 'bang' without further merit to their existence. Not to be forgotten are the displays. At Cortijo Opazo we enjoy a tranquil spot in the countryside surrounded by a collection of no less than eight villages, all within short walking distance. Most of these mount a colourful and LOUD display during their appropriate celebrations, and we can enjoy each and every one of them. Fabulous for the firework afficionado, but for us canines, sworn enemy of the unexplained noise, it makes life very challenging. We are duty bound to bark a such unpredictable occurances, and continue barking until they cease. I know this is to the annoyance of the tall ones I live with, but I have no alternative, it is in my genes and is an instinctive part of my terrier dachshund nature. Ella, as a mongrel, just cowers behind the sofa, what use is that to anyone? But it does upset our constitution and puts our nerves on edge. It's affecting my appetite too, and now, I simply can't get enough food! There was a lovely lady here earlier in the summer who continually gave me extra treats; sadly she only stayed a week - but I hear she is making a return for Christmas, have we ordered the turkey yet?

The month of August starts with the week of cultural activities in Portugos. Very civilised, the day times are spent with workshops for the members of the village, how to make a butterfly out of a old plastic bottle, an alien looking frog from a papier mache covered balloon, or a drama workshop. The evenings are spent showing pictures of various village activities during the year on an open air screen. But most important are the theatrcial presentations done by all age ranges of the village community, Portugos is very keen on theatre. Then come the Fiestas Patronales, the fiestas of the patron saints of the other villages. These vary from village to village but would usually have the format of a Mass in the church - with fireworks - a parade around the streets of the village with a statue of the patron saint - with fireworks - a brass band - with fireworks - a game session for the children - announced with fireworks - an all night dance - also announced with fireworks - and a colourful firmework display - with fireworks, of course. The order seems to go, first weekend in August, Atalbeitar, followed by Mecina and Mecinilla, then the large fiestas of Pitres to coincide with the national Spanish holiday of August 15th, then a suggestion of a fiesta in the villages of Capilerilla and Fondales, terminating with the third weekend of August and the fiestas of Ferrierola, which includes a large communal paella dish for all to share, and a full scale water fight in which no prisoners are taken. In addition this year we have had the Music In the Mountains season and the celebration of 10 years of the National Park of the Sierra Nevada by performing various musical itmes including a version of Beethoven's Hymm to Joy done in Alpujarran style - this even appeared on the national television news.

So, all in all, August is an active time up here in the Alpujarras, and for us dachshunds, a trying one. This is why I will be pleased to see the back of the fiesta season - that is until October, when Portugos mounts its own fiesta to its patron saint, and the biggest display of fireworks out of all the villages.

Yours, with ear plugs to close at paw,

Fergus

A Walk in High Summer

After the somewhat intense heat of recent weeks, then the storms of a few days ago, the temperatures seem to have settled down to a day time maximum of 28 degrees. This morning the air had a freshness about it and the sky was a deep and cloudless blue, so we all decided to chance it and go for a walk up to the waterfalls. The path takes us past our home village of Pórtugos, past some fields that are in cultivation, then above one of the main irrigation channels of the area and into an area of wild mountain vegetation mainly populated by encina and Pyrenean oak trees with various wild cistus and Spanish broom below. The going in such areas is never easy for a dachshund who inhabits a world very close to the uneven ground, but I did my best and valiantly kept up with my walking companions. Ella, as ever, was prancing about from rock to gully, but the two tall ones maintained a steady pace.

Shortly after an hour we arrived at our destination, the 'Area Recreativa de Pórtugos' and the waterfalls of the Junto de los Rios. Could you ever wish for a more refreshing spot to rest in on a hot summer's day? In the deep gorge below the waterfall there is a continual fine mist designed to offer the most delightful of cooling properties. Higher up, where the two rivers meet, there are a series of shallow pools and gentle cascades for the intrepid visitor to splash and wallow in. There could not be a more perfect spot to while away a hot August day.

As a sturdy dachshund, though, I am not built for heat and protested when my companions suggested we continue the walk further up the mountainside. The sun was now high in the sky and I was in danger of missing my siesta, so at my insistence, we returned via a different steep path that took us past more water courses and under some magnificent old chestnut trees. I suspect, though, that I was not the only one feeling the heat of the walk. Ella is currently curled up, for once quiet, and the two tall ones are snoring their way through the hour of siesta.

On returning to the house I was sorry to see that the lovely young couple who had been staying with us for nearly two weeks, during which time they announced their engagement, had left to catch their bus and then plane back to the UK - I was still hoping to be offered the role of best man at the wedding. They seem to have enjoyed their holiday and were kind enough to write the following in our guest book:

What a wonderful place to stay! Our first holiday in two years and so well worth the wait. From relaxing in the many corners of the garden, to serious walking in the hot, hot countryside, to splashing in the waterfalls and pools, oh yes, and eating lots of yummy tapas! Can't quite believe we have been here almost two weeks, but I could definitely be here for longer. So much to do and so many places to relax. Pitres is a very friendly village, bar Paco, Zumo de Piña (very nice), or the old lady in the Coviran supermarket who gives you a hug! It feels like a second home. Robert and William have been very welcoming and also really helpful with advice on things to do, thank you for a really memorable holiday. I also could not have dreamt of getting engaged in a more magical and romantic place.
Ella and Fergus rock!
Lizzie and Kyle, Bath, UK, staying in El Lújar, August 2009

How kind, but surely they should have said: 'Fergus rocks whilst Ella helps out with random percussion'.

More from me soon, now doubt, since it is fiesta weekend in Pitres.

Yours, rocking on,

Fergus.

Don't tell anyone, but it's raining

Summer has been on our mind a considerable amount recently, mainly, I suspect, due to the fact that it is here and it is a hot one. That is until today. Having lived in the Alpujarras almost six years now we are getting to know what to expect of the weather: that Autumn will unfold slowly and beautifully with warm weather lingering into November; early December will see the first real snow fall and start of the ski season; mid Winter will probably be mild with stunningly clear blue sky days; late winter will bring snow and or rain; Spring will be delightful but with some surprises; and Summer will be long and hot. However, one of our elderly neighbours, he who we meet at the crack of dawn on our watering days, maintains that on or around the 15th August the weather will change and there will be a day or two of rain. This year, along with many of the previous, he is right. Yesterday the clouds gathered, during the night we heard the thunder rumble and today we enjoyed the rain as it fell in showers. Now it is sunny once more, and tomorrow the long hot summer will return, but what a welcome respite this has been for us - although I think it came as an unwelcome surprise for our English guests, Kyle and Lizzie, who are happily escaping the rather wet 'barbeque summer' in the UK. The couple from Madrid that are also staying at Cortijo Opazo seem perfectly content with the fact that it is cooler here than in the oven that their home city becomes in summer.

And speaking of Kyle and Lizzie, Ella and I send our congratulations and best wishes to them on hearing they had become engaged - to each other - on their first night here. What a romantic spot we must have. I imagine the tall ones also extend their felicitations.

Kyle made reference to an old friend of his who has been asked to be the best man but I wonder if he acted too hastily and has neglected to consider the sense of decorum that a Dachshund could bring to such a role and such an occasion.

Yours, with speech prepared,

Fergus

Summer concert

It all paid off. All the work, all the weeding and trimming, pruning and strimming, all the frantic activity of the recent weeks all came together for the evening of July 24th. The garden was looking gorgeous as were, might I add, myself and Ella. The borders of the lawn were straight, the plants had been well watered during the week to ensure they were looking their best and all dead heads were removed. Water was trickling through the newly built garden fountain, and the breeze was lightly drifting through the ornamental grasses. A little after 7.30pm the public started to arrive and were able to spend time wandering around the gardens, appreciating what is a very singular sight in the area, swathes of herbaceous borders. Chairs were scattered around the square garden and the musicians were carrying out last minute rehearsals from the apartment 'La Corona'.

But boy was it hot! One of the hottest days of the year. Daytime temperatures had reached 34 degrees and it was all we could do to stop ourselves from wilting.

The concert, though, was a delight. About 65 guests turned up to enjoy the music, and the programme itself was a well thought out mixture of Vaughn Williams, Bach, and Mozart along with traditional Spanish music. Performers were The Quintessential Quartet from England - Alistair Kennedy, Amanda Rowden-Martin, Graham Gillham and Cat Jary; Klaartje van Veldoven, international soprano from Holland; and her partner, Rembrandt Frerichs, famous Dutch jazz pianist; José Manuel Muñoz, clarinetist from Seville; and Pepe Milan, local banduria player. Click on the play symbol below to see a little of what the evening had to offer.

My only complaint is against the tall ones, William and Robert. Having done all we could to assist them in the preceding weeks and days, were we allowed to sit amongst the audience offering our heart felt appreciation for the performance? No we were not! Shortly before the concert started we were lured into the house with promise of some dried biscuit or other, then shut up in one of the rooms there. We had to content ourselves by enjoying the music as it glided in through the open window, but we made our appreciation known by barking along at times in support of the louder pieces and the applause of the other listeners. It was as though we had been removed to the upper tiers of the circle where the seats have restricted viewing. Our only consolation was to know that whilst clearing up later, William's Mother, who fortunately for us is staying here at the moment, would surely slip us some more tasty morsels to compensate us for our captivity.

That was our third summer concert and we hope to continue the tradition of inviting people to our garden to enjoy the space and culture on offer.

Yours, watching from the circle,

Fergus

Flea in my ear

I've got a flea in my ear today, at least that's what it feels like. Most annoying. It's hot and I can't sit still for this constant irritation in my ear. I'm not sure if it is a sting or just a wayward grass seed. I've tried shaking my head vigorously from side to side to see if I can shift it, but no luck. If it were Ella shaking her head it would probably fall off and roll into the compost heap, so flimsy and fragile is her frame, but I'm a sturdy pedigree dachshund with strong features. Can you imagine how much energy I have to expend to shake this hefty brain box of mine. Then there are the ears. A rapid swivelling motion of the head causes then to flap vigorously, like some elephantine helicpopter. First under my chin then on the top of my head, each one consequetively, one after the other, beating me as they pursue their percussive path. It sends me into a stupified daze, but anything is better then this pain in my ear, if only I could dislodge it. The tall ones have tried poking their sausage like fingers into my auditory passage but only make matter worse, so I'm going to spend the rest of the day in the gloomy shade under the table trying to sleep and block out this sensation of having a flea in my ear, one that has taken up fencing for a hobby.

Before I sign off, I'd just like to mention Natalie and Robin, who appeared in a previous Dogblog. They left us on Wednesday, full of compliments about their stay here. This is what they were kind enough to write in the guest book:

What a stunning place, gorgeous gardens, enchanting cortijo, the most relaxing holiday we've had in a long time. As the other guests have said we would thoroughly recommend the four course meal, incredibly romantic and tasty. The walk to the waterfalls was perhaps not advisable in the full heat of July but the waters were worth the climb. Should recommend more but we took full advantage of lounging in the beautiful gardens and unwinding in this gorgeous place.
Natalie and Robin, July 2009

There seems a hushed quietness in the countryside around as the heat of summer starts to makes its presence felt and the locals gird themselves for the onset of fiesta season. For us, it's just one week until the garden concert.

Yours, from some sulky corner,

Fergus

PS - Haven't received any suggestions for fruit and vegetable related music as mentioned in my last blog, so I can't publish any.

Music in the Mountains

Sunday evening saw us going down to the lovely local village of Mecina for a delightful event, one of the concerts in the Music in the Mountains festival - a season of musical events that takes place throughout the year in the Alpujarras. In the summer many of the performances take place outside in rather informal situations. Last night a group from Oxford, UK, were performing their own choice of music on an Era in the village of Mecina - an Era being an old threshing circle. I recorded a rather scratchy video of the occasion but I feel it is worth listening to just to get a feel for the music.

The group had a rather unusual name, Potato Potato, but it seemed somehow fitting given their rustic agricultural environment. I wandered down to our vegtable bed this morning to see if any of our crops could inspire me to music, but alas all I could come up with were the ideas:

It's been a chard days night
All you need is loveage
Eat me tender
Strawberry fields forever
Hey Judia (Spanish, for bean)
You're getting to be a habas (Spanish for broad bean) with me
Somewhere over the rainbow chard

Any more contributions? Please email them to us: info(at)cortijoopazo.com

One of the more significant events in the fiesta calendar in Spain is the Bull Running in Pamplona, otherwise know as the Festival of San Fermin, an event fully supported and organised by the town hall, and filmed in its entirety by national TV channels.

During the second week in July Pamplona stages many days of bull fighting. To move the fated animals to the bull ring the bulls are released, early in the morning, from the other side of town. They are then encouraged to charge along a barricaded route of a little under 1 kilometre. Soon after they start running they encounter streets that are full of mostly men dressed in white with red neck scarves, who proceed to run with them, at risk of personal injury and sometimes death. This year there has indeed been a fatal injury but the fiesta continued as planned. The poor runner was buried the day after he was gored on the horn of a bull and he has become a sort of hero of the day. If you wish to see more of this then have a look at this link, although it is upsetting to watch it all.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lpz22RpsgpI

Much is still said about bull fighting and bull running in Spain. In 2003 a group of protesters started the idea of 'Running with the Nudes' and in protest initiated a tradition of running naked along the designated route three days before the festival starts. Apparently in the first year, when 25 people made such a protest, the locals were outraged at this moral affront. Now, just 6 year later, hundreds participate and it is regarded as another fun Spanish fiesta event that prolongs the celebrations and brings in more tourists and therefore more money. If you wish to have a look, then here's the link.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OzZy45Yg86I

Warning, there is no actual nudity to be seen.

Yours, from behind the camera but sitting on the fence,

Fergus

PS If you would like to receive an email from my assistant at Cortijo Opazo whenever I publish my Dogblog, please send in a request to info(at)cortijoopazo.com - the (at) is a clever code for @ that few but the most intelligent can crack, but hopefully not those internet spammers.

Dining in style

Last night we prepared a meal for Natalie and Robin, who are currently staying in La Corona. I say 'we' although I myself had little to do with the practicalities of cooking - my paws are not long enough to reach the food preparation counter. But I was there to maintain the standard, although not, alas, as a taster. The meal they enjoyed was:

Tapas of manchega cheese with a membrillo (quince) topping, accompanied by a glass if ice cold fino.
Starter of white bean pate served with black olives, sliced orange and homemade hazelnut and rosemary bread
Maincourse of a Spanish casserole: lentils, morcilla and chorizo with courgettes (from the garden) cooked in fresh mountain oregano.
Dessert of homemade lemon ice cream served with assorted fresh fruit from the garden dipped in chocolate
Wine and coffee.

The wine was a relatively new find for us, Vega Sabina, from the small town of Toro near to Salamanca, north west Spain. These wines are highly recommended, having a strong, oaky yet fruity flavour. Far preferable to the bowl of tepid water that sits on the floor for Ella and I to sup! Tapas was served in a corner of the garden whilst the main part of the meal was eaten on the terrace, 'al fresco'. I'm sure Natalie and Robin had an evening to remember.

Yours, from under the table,

Fergus

A touch of the theatricals

I'm not sure that I approve of what he has been up to but Robert wanted me to publish an extract of some piece of theatre that he and a couple of friends have been doing.

Apparently he even gets paid for doing it.

Yours, from the front row,

Fergus

Season of plenty

Summer is here, as I might have mentioned before. A little trip to the village today revealed the arrival of some of the 'veraneantes', which is the Spanish for summer visitors. Many of them will be people who were born in the area or who have family here. They will spend the rest of the year elsewhere in Spain, perhaps in their house in Granada, but come back to the Alpujarras for most of July and August - to this end many are actually retired but of course in Spain it is very normal to have at least a month's holiday during the hot part of the summer when you can escape either to the costas or to the mountains. So, a big welcome to them although they come back here and swan around as though they own the place - which probably they still do.

Also, more fresh crops have arrived. This week, hard at work in the vegetable bed, we have been harvesting potatoes, lettuce, carrots, courgettes, strawberries, raspberries, chard, and a handful of sweet runner beans. What to do with all this bounty? Well, the picture shows a delicious shortbread and fruit cake that William made.

Harvested from the wild this week has been oregano. The leaves of this popular herb are tasty enough but better by far are the newly opened flowers, picked at just the right moment. All around in the uncultivated fields and valleys, now is the right time. It is one of the many occasions when you can see the locals, with bottoms in the air, picking some valuable wild plant from the sides of the road. We've done our bit, as can be seen in the picture above, but there's more to collect.

News from the goat pen, Pastor has reinforced his enclosure, so, for the time being, I can relax my guard a little. Ella seems a more mad than usual and we suspect she has forgotten what to do when the weather gets summer hot, as it has been this last week. She still charges around the place and looks surprised to find herself out of breath and drooling from the mouth. She needs to learn from me, find a shady spot in some damp vegetation and wait for the day to pass.

Yours, from the back of the herbaceous border,

Fergus

On guard duty

We've had to put some effort into repelling the borders this week. The shepherd, otherwise know as 'Pastor', has been a little relaxed in respect of keeping his flock penned in. He has a large black goat with a handsomely long beard who takes no truck from anyone. Each night, after the shepherd has put the flock into the coral, this particular one waits until he has been left alone then stealthily climbs out of the pen. One or two of the braver young goats follow and they spend the night roaming or sleeping where they will. This inevitable means the odd excursion onto our land and into the garden. So far they have done no real harm but unless I keep up the guard it is only a matter of time. Ella is of little use depsite her agility. Today, for example, when Robert threw a stone to scare off the goats she thought it was a game and ran off to retreive it, totally ignoring the four goats who were snacking on the echinacae.

It's been a full house again this week. In la Corona we have had a couple from Holland, Marion and John, and in El Lujar there has been Helen and John. Both couple have departed today, leaving the place feeling a little quiet for a short while. Helen and John, who know Spain very well, have been enchanted by the area, John by the bird life and Helen by the tranquility and beauty of the garden. On leaving they were kind enough to write the following in our guest book:

Without wishing to be repetitive, we echo the sentiments of the previous guests regarding the quality of accommodation and service at Cortijo Opazo. And instead of feeling like one more in a queue of tourists we have felt more like welcome house guests. You would have to be pretty world-weary and cynical for Cortijo Opazo not to work its magic on you. So much beauty of place. The serenity of the cortijo, together with Robert and William's industrious efforts to always improve the amenities make it very special in the world of 'holiday lets'.

We, too, thoroughly enjoyed a home produced four course meal, served with "esmero" and humour and would recommend all future visitors to include a dinner at Opazo - well worth it.

One can take as much or as little from a holiday as you wish. But even if you take the minimum of what's on offer at Cortijo Opazo you will be the richer for it than any of the hordes down on the coast. ¡Que viva Opazo! Thank you R and W.

Helen and John, London - staying ten nights in El Lujar June 2009.

Marion and John were also very enamoured of the whole set up here and were clearly reluctant to leave. They wrote us a little play in our guest book, but this blog would become too long if I copied it out.

Today the weather has been perfect, a fresh 25 degrees with a light breeze and dazzlingly blue skies. I feel strangely energetic, which is not at all like me during the summer months. Due to heat up a bit in the week ahead. Better keep my eye on those goats, looking for a shady flower bed to take a siesta in.

Yours, from the look-out tower,

Fergus